A Presidential Traverse: 2

Part 2 of 3

My hiking buddy John was intent on collecting several of the peaks in the White Mountains. The planning stage of the hike was now done, and it was time to execute. On a mild summer day in July, I drove to New Hampshire and stayed at a local campground the day before our hike. It’s a four hour drive to the Highland Center at Crawford Notch from my home, and I wanted to be completely rested. I would need all the energy I could muster.

Weather reports had changed during the week. The extended forecast had offered mild weather, but now the day one weather pattern indicated a chance of thunderstorms in the afternoon.

This is not uncommon in the Whites in summer. As the warm air is forced to rise over the mountains, it becomes difficult for the humidity to evaporate in the cooler air, leading to rain or thunderstorms.

My plan was to have a difficult but short first day, and be back to our shelter early to secure a space, and be out of the weather.

John picked me up early on hike day. It was a half hour drive to Appalachia Trailhead in Randolph. The weather was a mix of sun and cloud, but no matter- our start would be up the Airline Trail in deep tree cover.

Mount Madison

At less than two miles, we left the Airline to continue on The Brookside Trail. Eventually we would link up with Valley Way, which would lead us to the summit of Madison. The mountain is the 5th tallest in New Hampshire. It’s basically a big rock pile. Gnarly, erosion resistant boot chewing rocks test your endurance. The summit is completely exposed to the elements.

When I arrived at the summit, I was already drained. Time out of the mountains had left me soft, and I was paying the price. My days carrying day packs up these steeps had not prepared me for carrying my current pack of 20 pounds, loaded with a tent, sleeping bag and pad, extra clothes and food. I looked across to Mount Adams. Adams had long been my least favorite mountain. John was exultant. He was still fresh as a daisy, and ready to charge on.

Cookies Before Hell

We descended to Madison Spring Hut. The hut is an Appalachian Mountain Club shelter in the col between the mountains. You can book a bed in advance for a fee, and breakfast is included by the hut’s “croo.” We were soldiering on, and opted for some homemade cookies, refilling our water bottles. Out of the hut I made a rookie mistake, heading up the Star Lake Trail to Adams instead of the Airline. Not realizing it until we were several hundred yards from the fork, we would travel a much steeper trail to the summit.

Adams Again

This was not my first rodeo with Mount Adams. I had hiked it with Fiona a few years earlier. Like Madison, it’s view are spectacular on a sunny day. It too is a giant pile of boulders that you climb like a mountain goat. When John and I reached the summit, I was toast. Somewhere on the steep climb I had developed a sharp cramp in my right leg, and strained an abductor muscle. it was very difficult to lift my right leg and a sharp stabbing pain hit me with each raise of my trail shoe. The summit was clouded up, and swarming with wasps,yellow jackets and every other bug imaginable. I thought to myself, “this mountain and I will never be friends.” John and I descended the peak to the Gulfside Path below.

Shelter From The Storm

Travel along the Gulfside Trail is easy. The views are excellent in good weather, but it was now later in the day, and due to me dragging a bad right leg, we were behind schedule. After a half mile on the trail, we would fork to the Israel Ridge Trail and the Perch Shelter. I was wiped out.

The temperatures began to cool as we reached our destination at the Perch, and the skies were darker. You could feel the dampness in the air. The shelter is a gem. It can sleep eight on its wood floor, but was empty save John and I. There’s a privy just a short distance from the shelter, and a swift running mountain stream in the opposite direction. I would take advantage of all of the amenities.

Planning for Failure

John was eyeing me with a worried expression. “Are you gonna make it?” had been his question several times over the last few hours. We had an honest discussion. I told him that If I was in my current condition tomorrow, the answer was likely no. We’d have to descend from the shelter and loop back to the car. I would be too slow if the cramp and strain persisted. We’d have to wait to see what the sunrise would bring.

After eating and drinking a liter or two of water, I put on every article of clothing I brought, and climbed into my sleeping bag. It was a lightweight bag, and I was concerned I would still be cold. I stuffed my tent fly into the bag as insulation, and used the tent as a cover as well. I knew the tent would cause a little condensation due to its material, but I’d be warm. Stuffing my earplugs in, I swallowed two Advil and was catatonic in minutes.

The following day would require a decision: Proceed or turn back?